Controversies over Yellowstone dominate the headlines but the mystique and reality of wonderland remains. Top left: Lower Falls in Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone; upper right: a wildlife watcher scans the high meadows; lower left: a silhouetted gray wolves pauses in a wintry river bottom, among a population of lobos that are the most-viewed in the world; lower right: the geyser basins of Yellowstone are as astounding to modern visitors as they were to ancient ones. All photos courtesy Jacob W. Frank/NPS